Salt Spring Island has long been a very quiet and idyllic slab of forest and rock in the Strait of Georgia. It’s a place best know for its Saturday morning market and the few celebrities who call the area home. Now, well, it’s still very much that. But, the idea of active tourism is starting to take hold. And why not? It’s a gorgeous area, perfect for leisurely cycling surrounded by calm ocean waters ideal for adventures.
Ganges, the island’s largest metropolis at over 10,000 residents, is ideally situated as a hub of adventure tourism with Long Harbour bursting out into the Strait of Georgia, stunning hikes close by, and a surrounding landscape that is pastoral in the best possible way with small farms and food and drink operations scattered hither and yon to explore.
The pace is slow on Salt Spring, despite what the locals might think. Let’s call it Island Time Adventures. Here’s how to spend a wonderful active weekend.
Where to Stay
Everything is close at hand on Salt Spring. Ferries arrive at two terminals on opposite sides of the island in Fulford Harbour, which is where on the mainland ferries arrive as well as Vesuvius.
From there, most head to Ganges or one of many small B&Bs and inns available throughout Salt Spring.
We decided to stay at the Harbour House Hotel, which is walking distance to bustling downtown Ganges, and also across from Long Harbour and close to the windy roads that lead north.
Harbour House is recently renovated with well-appointed rooms all pointing towards water offering lovely ocean views.
The hotel is across from the entrance to the Hastings House, which is an old-school and very charming hotel with some of the most picture-perfect little English-style cottages available in addition to other options.
What to Do
Ocean Adventures
More importantly, the Harbour House is right across the street from the location of Salt Spring Adventures, which offers a range of adventures including classic whale watching and wildlife tours as well as kayaking and paddleboarding.
Owner Zoë Ward has a marine biology background, and her passion for the ocean and the area is evident.
On a wildlife tour of the area, Ward expounds on the local history and lore of the smaller islands near Salt Spring, many of which, like Goat Island and Chocolate Beach, are within kayaking distance for her and her company. Some, further away, are the destinations for multi-day tours.
While on a wildlife tour, there was no end to the fascinating information, and glimpses of stunning marine life aboard a very comfortable zodiac boat. There are even options to stop at certain islands for a drink at a local pub or a winery.
When visiting Salt Spring, talk to Ward, see what she recommends. The local waters are chock full of marine life from the abundant harbour seals, to porpoise, sea lions, orcas, humpback whales and more. But just being out in the Strait of Georgia on a gorgeous sunny day is more than enough. Stunning.
Salt Spring Cycling Routes
People don’t flock to Salt Spring for the adventure. They come for the lifestyle, for the quiet, the low-key hippie vibe that still persists despite a slowly growing population.
If any sector of tourism is growing on Salt Spring, it has to do with food, and with farms. But, that’s great news if you’re a cyclists. It’s nothing the two-wheeled set like more than cycle touring with a purpose, especially if that purpose is delicious food and drink.
That’s why, touring around Salt Spring, we see signs for slow cycling routes that wind around every nook and cranny of the island leading past some high-level foodie finds.
That’s how we found on the Hen and Hound Brasserie, on the north end of Salt Spring. Bike rack out front, more front yard patio than restaurant, this gem provides cyclists and other tourists and locals with superior farm-to-table fare in pretty much the most perfect spot one could imagine.
Upon arrival, one day around noon, a pod of orcas were frolicking in the strait in front of the restaurant while a collection of travellers enjoyed an incredible brunch.
Keep following the road around the northern tip for more great finds including a beautiful lavender farm, and one of a few wineries on the island.
Head south from Ganges, and there are more delightful rural routes, of a more hilly and windy variety, one of which leads to the home of Salt Spring Island Cheese. This, the home and love of founder David Wood, is not to be missed.
First, the place is stunning. Second, there are goats to pet and play with. But, perhaps most importantly, the cheese they are making at this little farm are world class. Tastings are available, and I highly recommend buying some along with the whack of crackers, heading to the patio with a refreshing drink and just savouring the moment.
There are many other worthy stops here and there across the island and in-between stops there are these colourful and creative farm stands offering a wide range of roadside products.
Of course, what Salt Spring could desperately use is a main cycling route from ferry terminals to Ganges that is straight and safe to allow for more bicycle tourists to flock to the region. And, they will come. Right now, the roads leading to Ganges are packed with cars and there is not always a lot of room on the road for bicycles. Sure, the rural slow routes are fine for touring, but the travelling needs to be considered also. We heard a rumour that this might happen at some point. This, and some more cycling infrastructure for tourists would really help because Salt Spring has huge potential in this area.
Hiking on Salt Spring
There are a number of official BC Parks on Salt Spring and other hiking areas in between.
One morning, we head up Mount Erskine for a lovely and scenic 1-2 hour hike. It begins with a walk through a gorgeous forest chock full of big trees and heads up, up, up to a rocky scramble to some stunning ocean views from the summit of the mountain at about 450 metres. There are trail options for those interested more in the straight up variety. But this hike can and should be done as a loop, with some time built in to enjoy the view and linger a while. Watch out for the fairy doors.
Another stunner is nearby Mount Maxwell, which offers similar but somewhat longer hiking options. This hike has similarly stunning forested sections with old mossy trees and giant Douglas firs. Highly recommended.
Be sure to check out Ruckle Park also. It’s a wonderful camping area right on the ocean. It was at Ruckle, many years ago, we first stayed on Salt Spring. Campers park and hike into a collection of sites perched lovingly on a bank overlooking the ocean. The park also has some fantastic hiking with windswept arbutus trees, moss-covered pathways and lovely views along the way.
Just Sitting
Of course, the best thing to do on Salt Spring might just be relaxing and doing nothing. Salt Spring is home to a buddhist monastery, which one is welcome to visit. And, it could inspire visitors to slow down, listening to the winds, smell the wildflowers and just be.
Where to Eat
Yes, Salt Spring has some good restaurants. Here are a few of our favourites we discovered along the way:
Auntie Pestos: This fun Italian restaurant right in Ganges serves up some seriously tasty cuisine in a lovely dockside location complete with patio. The pasta is homemade, lots of local products appearing on the menu. Beyond pastas, the restaurant, not surprisingly, knows how to prepared seafood and steaks very well.
Salt Spring Island Coffee Café: This place ended up being our go-to for many snacks, and morning coffees. It had a great vibe, delicious and simple breakfast foods like avocado toast and granola to start the day of right. And, the best coffee we had on the island.
Oyster Catcher: We found this spot in the most obvious of locations after scrambling to find a last-minute dinner spot, and we were glad we did. The location right along the Salt Spring Marina is fantastic. The menu is large and has a variety of options to satisfy families with divergent food taste. You know what I’m talking about. And, the patio is huge so there is always going to be room.
Hen and Hound Brasserie: As mentioned, this is a true gem. Farm-to-table cuisine, charming and scenic location, wonderful service. Go here.
Mateada: Although we only hit this cute bistro for some live music and cocktails, the South American menu had us contemplating staying an extra night just to come back to eat. The restaurant also features local and organic ingredients. And, we can attest to the quality cocktail preparations with both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options.
Final Thoughts
Is Salt Spring Island the next adrenaline-fuelled adventure town? Definitely not. What it does provide is a unique charm all its own. There is no other place on Vancouver Island, perhaps in BC quite like Salt Spring with its combination of soft adventures, rural charm, fine foods and laidback, artsy vibe. Perhaps now is the time for your island-time adventure getaway?
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